WHAT'S IN THE WAX?

Does this wax contain paraffin?

Yes — our Container and Melt Blend includes premium soy, highly refined paraffin and professional additives. It's designed to be ready-to-use with no extra blending needed. One pour and trouble free. If you're looking for a paraffin-free option, our All Natural Blend is the one to choose.

How much paraffin is in the blend?

Around 30% in the container and melt blend and zero in the All Natural wax.

Is your wax vegan?

  • Container Blend: Yes
  • Melt/Pillar Blend: Yes
  • All Natural Blend: Contains a little beeswax, so not vegan

Are your waxes tested on animals?

Never. None of our waxes are tested on animals.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT BLEND

Can I use the Container Blend in moulds?

Not recommended. Our Melt/Pillar Blend is designed for moulds and holds its shape beautifully.

Is your wax one-pour?

Yes! Our blends are designed to set smoothly in a single pour. Some makers do a quick heat-gun pass after 24 hours for a perfectly flat top - totally optional.

Is this wax good for beginners?

Absolutely. Our blends are designed to make candle making simple and enjoyable, whether you're brand new or a candle-making pro.

Can I use the Melt Pillar Blend in Containers?

Not recommended - it’s hard and has a high melt point. Our Container Blends are designed for vessels.

GETTING STARTED

What temperature should I melt the wax?

Warm the wax gently up to 85°C. This ensures everything melts evenly and gives you the very best results when adding fragrance.

When should I add fragrance?

The sweet spot is around 80°C. At this temperature, the wax and fragrance blend beautifully and help you achieve great scent throw.

How long should I stir for?

A good 2–5 minutes is usually enough, but some heavier fragrances may need a little longer. Give it a good, even stir — the wax will thank you later!

Can I use essential oils?

We always suggest using candle-safe fragrance oils instead. They’re more reliable, burn more cleanly, and give better results.

POURING, COOLING & ENVIRONMENT

What temperature should I pour at?

  • Container Wax: 65°C
  • Melt / Pillar Wax: 75°C
    These temperatures make a big difference to smooth tops and reduced frosting.

How should I cool my candles?

Slow and steady wins the race! Cool your candles in a warm room - ideally around 23°C. Avoid cold sheds, drafty windows, or leaving candles on cold worktops.

Should I warm my jars?

Yes, it helps a lot. Pop your jars in the oven at ~40°C for 10 minutes before pouring to reduce frosting and wet spots. Warm jars also prevent cold shock jump lines when the wax meets cold walls.

How long should I cool my candles for?

The first 24hrs are crucial for correct setting and consistent warm temperatures are most important. After 48hrs, your candles should be fully set and ready to go.

How can I slow down cooling?

Cover the candles with a cardboard box while they cool. It keeps the warmth in and helps prevent cracks and sinkholes.

Why do my candles look different when i pour throughout the day?

Room temperatures change - especially morning vs evening. If the temperature changes, the cooling changes too. A steady 23°C room will give you beautifully consistent results.

FRAGRANCE TIPS

Are all fragrance oils the same?

No.
There are thousands of fragrance oils, but only a few waxes are ideal for candles. We recommend trying a range of suppliers to find what works best with your wax. Some fragrances are designed for paraffin wax, and others for vegetable waxes.

Price is not always an indicator of strength — we’ve used both expensive and budget oils. Some are strong at 3%, others need 9%. Testing is essential.This is where most candle-development time is spent.

Soyaluna wax + HTP wicks + Fragrance.

Other important factors include:

  • The temperature you added fragrance
  • Wick size and burn profile
  • How the fragrance interacts with the hot wax pool

    If the wax is too cold, fragrance won’t disperse. If too hot, it may flash off.

Why can’t I smell my candle?

This usually comes down to fragrance choice and compatibility. Try different suppliers - some fragrances are naturally stronger than others.

Wick size, pour temp, and fragrance percentage matter too.

Why do some fragrances cause wicks to mushroom and others not?

Fragrance oils can sometimes contain 40 different ingredients. Some have heavier molecules, some contain powders. These ingredients will interact with the wick differently and may clog the wick and cause mushrooming. Try reducing the fragrance by 0.5% at a time until performance improves.

I love a fragrance oil but it doesn't have any throw when in a candle, should I change my wax?

Unfortunately, some fragrance oils just don’t get along well with certain waxes - it happens! Even great oils can behave differently depending on their ingredients and how they’re formulated.

The good news is that you’ve already nailed the two most important constants:
- your wax
- your wick type

Once those are set, the only thing you should change during testing is the fragrance oil.

We strongly recommend trying a few different suppliers or variations of the same scent. It’s very common to find another version of the same fragrance that works perfectly with your setup — sometimes even better than the original.

How much fragrance should I add?

It depends on the fragrance:

  • Strong scents: 3–5%
  • Delicate scents: 6–8%

A strong cold smell in the bottle is usually a good sign.

WICKS & BURNING BEHAVIOUR

Can I use any type of wick?

No. There are thousands of wick options, and matching wick + wax + fragrance is essential.
Aim for:

  • No mushrooming
  • Self-trimming if possible
  • Safe flame height
  • Even burn

Which wicks do you recommend?

  • 20cl jars: HTP 104 / 105
  • 30cl jars: HTP 120 / 126
  • 2–3 wick candles: HTP 104 (adjust if needed)

Why is my melt pool small?

You might need a slightly larger wick or for wide jars, 2–3 wicks instead of huge one.

I use wooden wicks, any tips?

Untreated wooden wicks can release tiny air bubbles when wax is poured over them. If the wax isn’t hot enough, the bubbles won’t rise to the surface - instead they form a cavity around the wick.

As the candle cools, the outside sets first while the centre shrinks. If there’s a weak cavity around the wick, the surface can crack.

Pouring at 65°C and cooling too quickly can cause this.

If your wooden wicks aren’t pre-treated, here’s a simple method you can try:

  1. Warm a small batch of Soyaluna wax to 60–70°C.
  2. Drop in a handful of wicks (a sieve is perfect for this so you don’t have to handle them).
  3. Leave them submerged for about 20 seconds — just enough to coat them, but not so long that the adhesive on the booster strip loosens.
  4. If you struggle with wick stability, Using 100% paraffin works even better, as wooden wicks are famously tricky with vegetable waxes. That’s why booster/booster strips exist!
  5. After dipping, gently shake off any excess wax and lay the wicks on baking paper to cool for a couple of hours.
  6. Once they’re dry, insert them into your tins or jars as normal and pour your candle

Why is my candle smoking?

The wick is likely too big. Try a smaller size and retest.

Which Wooden wicks do you recommend?

Official Wooden Wicks with Booster. 03 /04 thickness.

What is “mushrooming”?

This is a little carbon build-up on top of the wick. It usually means the wick is too big or the fragrance isn’t fully compatible. HTP wicks help minimize this.

Should I trim my wick?

Yes — if it’s not self-trimming, keep it around 10–15mm before each burn for a clean, safe flame.

My candle is tunnelling — help!

Try a larger wick or for very wide jars, use 2–3 smaller wicks. Remember: burn 1 hour per inch of candle diameter.

Should it fully pool on the first burn?

No - an ideal candle reaches a full 10mm melt pool by the third 4-hour burn.
If it reaches a deep full pool on the first burn, it will likely burn too hot later as the vessel warms.

FIXING COMMON CANDLE ISSUES

What are wet spots?

They’re little patches where wax pulls from the glass. You can reduce wet spots by:

  • Cleaning your glass
  • Warming containers
  • Pouring in a warm room
  • Cooling slowly

Why does my candle have cracks or bubbles?

It shouldn't with our waxes, but if it does its usually because the candle cooled too fast or the wax was poured too cool. Heating to 85°C and pouring at the right temperature works wonders.

Why does my candle have an uneven top?

Usually caused by quick cooling or cold environments. Warm containers and correct pouring temperatures help enormously.

How do I get smooth tops?

  • Pour at the right temperature
  • Warm your containers
  • Keep the room warm
  • Avoid drafts
  • A quick heat gun pass works for small imperfections

What is sweating?

Small droplets on the surface caused by temperature changes or too much fragrance. It’s harmless - wipe it away, or allow it to reabsorb when the room cools.

COLOUR & ADDITIVES

Can I use crayons to colour candles?

No - crayons aren’t suitable. Always use candle-safe dyes.

Can I add dyes to your wax?

Our wax works beautifully with candle dyes. Keep below 0.2%. If using mica, test thoroughly.

Does your wax contain UV inhibitors?

Not by default. If you’re colouring candles, you can add a UV inhibitor (start around 0.1%).

When should I add dyes?

Add these at the 85c point to ensure they are fully dissolved and blend with the wax. Stir for a few minutes to ensure fully belnded and does not sink to the bottom.

Will dyes affect the burning?

Low percentages usually won’t, but heavy dye loads can clog the wick and affect burn performance.
You may need to wick up or use more wicks. Testing is essential.
High colour loads can also increase mushrooming — reducing fragrance % can help balance this.

If you have any others questions, please contact us. We're here to help.